I realise that “rainbow” food trends are nothing new, as they’ve been insulting my social media feeds with their multicolours for as long as I can remember. A world where the humble mozzarella cheese could live happily on a plate without being molested by pinks, purples, oranges, blues and yellows, has merged with one where food doesn’t sell unless it’s been “revamped” in some sort of way.
In the same week that I Twitter stalked an exchange between two of my favourite food writers, where Diana Henry commented: “Food as major fashion consumable. Hate it”, came my awareness of rainbow mozzarella. The colourful cheese sticks in question have been radioactive since last year, available at a from a pizzeria in New Jersey named Tony Boloney’s.
Am I the only one who thinks these look revolting? Like, as appetising as watching someone eat melted crayons? I find the rainbow food trend unappealing for many reasons, but the most pressing being because I don’t know what makes the food colourful. Tony’s Unicorn Blood Mozzarella sticks attribute “food colouring” to the rainbowfication of their food, but what does “food colouring” mean? It could mean the same “food colouring” that made us all prang out and banish the blue smartie, only to bring it back with another marketing ploy. Nestle Rowntree supposedly stopped producing the blue version of the chocolate smarties back in 2006 because removed all “artificial” colours from their casings, and couldn’t find a natural alternative for the blue chemical used.
I know what you’re thinking…why would a woman who lives off KFC and McDonalds – the home of “pig toenail milkshakes” – give a crap about food colouring? Well, in short I don’t. But what really makes me uneasy is the PR behind the rainbow trend. I find it troubling that when it comes to food PR and marketing, it’s either what looks best on Instagram that sells, or what is “healthiest” for you, and this is a contradiction of the highest degree.
I have been guilty of falling for food trends, in the sense that I’d work my diet somewhat around what would look best on Instagram, trying to fall into the “extra gluttonous” category. This mentality in turn had somewhat been translated through my recipes for Not Plant Based recipes, admittedly. On days when I just fancied a salad, I’d feel the need to make something ultra greasy for the most Instagram likes, and to fit within a certain aesthetic. An article I read recently by Louise Gray titled ‘My double life as a food writer and bulimic’, spoke to me on many levels, but particularly for the line: “Young people are expected to be thin while at the same time boasting about their gastronomic exploits online.” To manipulate the way I eat for Instagram is untrue to Not Plant Based – a brand that promotes “balance” and eating whatever the hell you want, when you want.
As a result of this admission, my recipes from now on will be what I love to eat, not just a greasy, sloppy mess to fit a certain Instagram aesthetic (although I do love to eat the occasional greasy, sloppy mess, of course..) and when I just don’t fancy cooking, I won’t.
Like today…here are the mozzarella sticks from McDonalds I had for lunch today. #norainbow.